My ongoing apprenticeship
I was born in Rome and for as long as I can remember I have always been fascinated by jewels,
something that was certainly of no interest to my immediate family. I graduated from Cambridge University with a thesis,
not surprisingly, on jewels depicted in paintings in Florence during the Early Renaissance.
My search for employment led me to the best
possible place to see, touch and get to know the greatest number and diversity of quality jewels: an auction house.
I spent 14 years at Sotheby's: initially in London starting with making photocopies and tea, then I progressed to cataloguing in Geneva, and finally
I became an expert, appraiser, an auctioneer and head of the jewellery department in Amsterdam.
In 1997 I began a 18 year collaboration with Bulgari,
forming the company's historical archives and creating Bulgari's permanent retrospective collection of jewels, watches and precious objects.
This then led me to curate the first five major exhibitions on Bulgari held in Rome, Paris, Beijing, Shanghai and San Francisco.
Today I am recognized as one of the most knowledgeable experts of Bulgari.
As a consultant I also collaborate with important jewellery houses, among which VBH, Pomellato,Vhernier and Van Cleef & Arpels - L'École.
I am a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (FGA). I served on the committee of the Society of Jewellery Historians (UK)
and have been a member of the Society since 1985. More recently I was elected member of the Università e Nobil Collegio degli Orefici Argentieri e Gioiellieri dell'Alma città di Roma,
the goldsmiths' guild established in Rome in 1508.
What I love the most about my work
Obviously, my greatest joy comes from wearing or handling a beautiful jewel. And it is a joy I wish to share with others.
Therefore, alongside jewellery consulting activities, I have been and continue to be involved in jewellery education.
Many still today
consider my course "Understanding Jewellery with Amanda Triossi", held at Sotheby's Institute in London from 1992 to 2000, a milestone
in jewellery studies.
I believe that the history and evolution of jewellery design and the understanding of precious materials, techniques and fashion
are of vital importance for all those associated with the world of jewels:
jewellery designers, manufacturers, sales' staff, art historians, antique and period jewellery dealers, appraisers, gemmologists, stylists, collectors, and jewellery amateurs.
One cannot exclude either all those stunning women who wear jewels on the red carpet and are too often unaware of what they are wearing and
how to wear them to the best advantage.
Especially now when a great number of those jewellery houses, that made the history of jewellery design in the 20th century,
have become part of luxury conglomerates and multinationals, are becoming distant from their initial world of rarefied and exclusive jewellery,
knowledge and understanding of the sublime art of jewellery is even more important.
Exhibitions
Amanda Triossi curates jewellery exhibitions.
Her recent major exhibition has been the retrospective on the jewellery house Bulgari.
With over 600 objects, they were held in Rome, in Paris, in Beijing and Shanghai.
Expertise
Amanda Triossi MA in Art History and FGA Fellow of the Gemmologica Association
of Great Britain, reserchese, catalogues, authenticate and appraises jewels for private individuals as well as companies.
She worked for fourteen years for the international auction house Sotheby's in jewellery department and eighteen years as curator of the
Bulgari Heritage Collection.
Lectures, Courses and Seminar
Amanda Triossi researches and presents bespoke
lectures for academic and private institutions.Her lectures have a reputation for being informative as well as entertaining. She has held worldwide seminars ans courses on the history of jewellery.
The outstanding reputation of the intensive "Understanding Jewellery with Amanda Triossi" course, held in London for Sotheby's from 1992-2000, and her world-wide short seminars continues into the 21st century.
Collections
Amanda Triossi curates collections of 19th and 20th century jewellery for private individuals as well as companies.
She advises what to buy and is able to source best jewels. She initiated and built up the Bulgari Heritage Collection over a period of 18 years.
Jewels made of rare and precious materials are a distinctive characteristic of us humans and date back to the
dawn of civilization.
Anthropologist and archaeologists believe that primitive men began to be interested in personal adornment
at the time when they began to use words: this explains why jewels feature in the earliest archaeological finds.
From these early days jewels have never ceased to be owned and coveted by men and women world-wide.
Jewels are an expression of wealth, power and status, they serve as talismans and amulets, they are barometers of economic and social
history, they are closely linked to the discoveries of precious deposits whether metals or gems, they are intimately associated to history
of fashion, they depend on the advancement of technology and they are a magnificent small scale art form, in most cases intrinsically
precious.
Jewels appeal to all people, to all classes and to all genders, so ultimately they are trans-cultural, trans-social and trans-gender.
For all the above and many more reasons, I believe jewels are a fascinating subject matter worthy of study and possibly of greater
understanding.
My initial passion for jewels was sparked as child when I saw photographs of the Coronation of the Sha of Persia and the Empress Farah Diba.
At the age of four, my mother gave me a magazine with pictures of the coronation ceremony of Reza Pahlavi, Iran's King of Kings.
These pages recorded a host of Orientally styled magnificent and eye-catching items - gem-studded crowns, carriages,
a throne and Farah Diba wearing extraordinary jewels. I spent hours leafing through this magazine rather than more traditional children's books.
Clearly this glittering and gem-studded event struck my childish imagination and from then on I decided I would devote my life to jewels.
[...see photos ]
[ Photos Farah Diba Incoronation ]
[ hide photos]
CONSULTANT
From 1997 to 2015 consultant for Bulgari heading a project for the creation of the
Bulgari Corporate Historical Archives in Rome and to develop and increase the Bulgari's retrospective collection.
Curator of the first four major Bulgari exhibitions worldwide.
[...more about Amanda's Bulgari exhibitions ]
[ read less about Bulgari exhibitions ]
2013 Guest Curator - The Art of Bulgari San Francisco, De Young Museum
2013 Curator - Bulgari Retrospective Exhibition, Singapore, Bulgari premises
2012 Curator - Bulgari Retrospective Exhibition, Tokyo, Bulgari premises
2012 Curator - Bulgari retrospective exposition, Shanghai, Aurora Foundation
2011 Curator - 1st Bulgari retrospective in Asia, Beijing, National Museum of China
2010 Curator - 2nd Bulgari exhibition featuring over 600 items, Paris, Grand Palais
2009 Curator - 1st Bulgari retrospective exhibition, Rome, Palazzo delle Esposizioni:
"BVLGARI - Between Eternity and History - 1884-2009 - 125 years of Italian jewels")
.
[ read less about Bulgari exhibitions ]
2000 and 2001 Jewellery Tour of Rome for Society of Jewellery Historians and for Golkonda Moscow respectively
1999 - 2003 Consultant for VBH Luxury: creation of a line of high jewellery in close collaboration with the founder and artistic
director Bruce Hoeksema
1997 Collaboration began with Bulgari
1986 - 2000 Affiliation with Sotheby's, initially at Sotheby's London (1986), Geneva (1987) and Tel Aviv (1988).
1989 - 1992 Head of Sotheby's jewellery department in Amsterdam
TEACHING AND LECTURING
2019 Keynote speaker at the North West Jewellery Conference, Seattle
2019 Participated as lecturer at the second edition of Gem Genève, the new international jewellery fair held in Geneva.
2018 Keynote speaker at the North West Jewellery Conference, Seattle
2018 Participated as lecturer at the first edition of Gem Genève, the new international jewellery fair held in Geneva.
2018 Interviewed for the film "Calla a New Religion" for Vhernier and for L'École The School of Jewelry Arts - Van Cleef & Arpels for a short film on collecting
2018 Selected by Alta Gamma Italy as media partner for the jewellery section for the Premio Giovani Imprese, an award to promote
and recognize excellence among young Italian designers/ entrepreneurs
2017 Consulted and lectured for Pomellato to celebrate the company's 50th anniversary
2016 Held, in partnership with Adventures in Art, a jewellery seminar at Masterpiece Fair in London
2016 - 2015 Organised, curated and held in partnership with Adventures in Art various
jewellery-centric trips for collectors and jewellery amateurs, in India, Rome, Moscow and Milan
2001 and 2002 Organised, curated and led Jewellery Tour of Rome respectively for the Society of Jewellery Historians (UK)
and for Golkonda of Moscow
1992 - 2000 - Organised and held 'Understanding Jewellery with Amanda Triossi'
course at Sotheby's Institute in London, the first intensive one-month course entirely devoted to the history of Western jewellery design,
offered in London Further seminars and lectures for Sotheby's worldwide as well as other institutions or companies.
[...more about Amanda's lectures and seminars ]
[ read less about lectures and seminars]
For Sotheby's:
in Europe -Amsterdam, Bruxelles, Geneva, London, St Moritz
in Asia -, Hong Kong, Singapore
in North America -Los Angels, New York, Seattle
For other institutions and companies:
-Abu Dhabi Art Fair, Saadiyat Island Cultural District, UEA
-ACMI Australian Centre for the Moving Image -Melbourne
-Alrosa Diamond Company, Moscow
-Annual Antique and Period Jewelry and Gemstone Conference, 1995, 1997, 2001, 2003, USA
-American Society of Jewelry Historians, New York
-Arro Conference, Maxxi, Rome
-Artmark, Bucharest
-British Museum, London
-De Young Museum, San Francisco
-Gemmological Association, Tel Aviv
-Golkonda, Moscow
-Gem Genève, Geneva
-Istituto Europeo del Design, Milan, Rome
-IGI - Istituto Gemmologico Italiano, Milan and Rome
-Forum Interculture, Bern
-Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti, Malta
-National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
-National Museum of China, Beijing
-North West Jewelry Conference, Seattle
-Phillips de Pury Auction House, Moscow
-Poldi Pezzoli Museum, Milan
-Society of Jewellery Historians, London
-Università Ca'Foscari, Department Asian and Northern African Studies, Venice
-Vhernier, Milan, Padua, Rome, Udine, Los Angeles
-Victoria and Albert Museum, London
-Victorian Box, Tokyo
[ read less about lectures and seminars ]
A round table conversation moderated by Vivienne Becker together with Vanessa Cron and Juliet de la Rochefoucauld.
This talk will introduce Marina B striking jewels, undoubtedly among the most iconic designs of the 1980sdesigned by Marina Bulgari Spaccarelli
-a member of the Bulgari family and one of the most outstanding 20th century female high jewellery designers. The genesis of Marina B designs,
her innovations and her legacy will be explored and explained. Marina Bulgari's courage in leaving her paternal established family business, her
fascinating and successful professional life, her determination as a world class athlete coupled with personal tragedy, will fascinate and inform
the audience.
The talk will provide an overview of jewels depicted in Italian portraits during the 1400 and 1500. Portraits of this period provide an invaluable record of jewellery of the time as little of it has survived, they illustrate the fashionable types of ornaments that range from lavish gem-encrusted hairnets to bejewelled furs known as zibellini. Furthermore, especially in the 1400 the majority of important painters, such as Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Verrocchio were trained also as goldsmiths hence the accuracy in the depiction of the jewels due to their intimate familiarity with the jewelled arts. Their appreciation for jewels led these artists to depict abundantly also jewels in religious subjectpaintings. The differences and similarities between those depicted in secular images will be explored and explained, unveiling some secrets.
-for joining me on Zoom click here -Four Major BVLGARI Exhibition Catalogues
tra eternità e storia
- BVLGARI -
"dal 1884 al 2009
125 anni di gioielli italiani"
- BVLGARI -
"125 ans de magnificence italienne"
- BVLGARI -
The Art of
BVLGARI
"La Dolce Vita and Beyond 1950-1990"
Beijing
Rome
Capri
Cori
Val d'Orcia
Pisciarelli
Venezia
Sorrento
Cicinnati
Rome
Saumur
Geneva
Gstaadt
Singapore
Beijing
Shanghai
Beijing
Roma
Moscow
Seattle
Seattle
Geneva
Geneva
Vicenza
Palm Beach
Geneva
Geneva
Geneva
New York
Singapore
Singapore
Geneva
Geneva
Abu Dhabi
Paris
Rome
Paris
Guangzho
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
Photo by
Peter Hunt
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
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Ottavio Sbragia
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Marco Delogu
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Antonio Cama
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Antonio Cama
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Antonio Ioli
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Antonio Barrella
Photo by
Antonio Ioli
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
Photo by
Antonio Barrella
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